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Post by paddyfitz on May 19, 2010 21:08:05 GMT -5
This is a basic guideline to abide by:
Number___________ Numberplates Yes/No Safety Wire (oil) Yes/No Safety Wire (coolant) Yes/No N/A Safety Wire (Hydraulic) Yes/No N/A Tires and Rims (nylock/safety wire) Yes/No Tires and Rims (safe) Yes/No Brakes (hydraulic taped) Yes/No N/A Brake Cables Damaged Yes/No Brakes Full Lock Yes/No Exhaust Silencer Yes/No Engine Pivot (nylock/safety wire) Yes/No Suspension (nylock/safety wire) Yes/No Selector box guard Yes/No N/A Oil Vent hose Yes/No N/A Batteries mounted and crash proof Yes/No N/A Fuel Tank Shutoff Marked Yes/No Fuel Line Hose Clamps Yes/No Ball End levers Yes/No Self closing throttle Yes/No Bar Ends capped Yes/No Kill Switch Marked Yes/No Glass Taped Yes/No Water Wetter Yes/No N/A License Plate removed Yes/No Stands Removed Yes/No Mirrors Removed Yes/No Turn signals removed or taped Yes/No Kickstarter removed (ex smallframe vespa) Yes/No Leathers Approved Yes/No Helmet Approved Yes/No Back Protector Yes/No Tech Inspector________________ Rider__________________
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Post by bakaracer on Jun 9, 2010 0:35:53 GMT -5
what if my bike has the axle nut and motor mount nuts that have the split metal flaps that lock the nut to the bolt when tightened,is that ok? and also how you guys safety wiring the rear axle nut on the single sided cvt trans style scooters like a zuma or honda elite?
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Post by paddyfitz on Jun 9, 2010 11:52:20 GMT -5
I see a lot of the Zuma clone motors that feature a cotter pin through the axle. That should suffice. If yours doesn't have something like that, I'd say gob some RTV on the nut & neighboring threads for now. I think we can give you a better idea once we're at the track & can see what you're working with. You'd be surprised at what people can do to make the bikes more safe & solid. A lot of it is going to depend on what kind of hardware is on there. Race that thing!
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