Amassing a pile of goodies & tearing the lil beasty down. Opted to do most of the work in the off hours @ home (seems to keep me more focused while at work...).
Yes, I'm getting rid of the drum brake front end.
Thinking of selling my complete top end/crank configuration to anyone who wants a bolt on lump of power for a smally... I also have a VSP2 Race exhaust that I'm (barely/sadly) ready to part with... anyone?
Because this is what's coming...
I'd love to see what everyone else is up to if it's not too top secret!
Good point. I think you need a time lapse camera to capture the paint fading and the tires slowly going flat.
At least you have a life. Apparently I don’t as I am just finishing my winter rebuild. Speaking of which I’m pretty freakin’ stoked how it turned out. I will try to get some photos this weekend and post them.
The highlights are…
- cut 4” out of the headset stem to lower the bars down - rework the bars to have a comfy drop to them - ditched the front drum for a disc with a remote master behind the leg shield - fully adjustable bitubos front and rear - cross bar with tank and lowered seat - bitchin’ tail piece body work like a sport bike - full engine rebuild with new bearings and seals - stroker crank makes for 175ccs - vforce reed - vespatronic ignition and flywheel
Yes, I’m definitely stoked for the new season. BTW, regarding our previous conversation about getting better video this year I picked up a high def GoPro helmet cam on a boxing day sale.
Hey Patrick what mods are you doing or have you done to the cases to fith that kit? How big did you have to go to get that 54 stroke crank in? Also what diameter and depth do you need to open the cases for the spigot of that kit? Are you adding any material to the cases?
The full circle 54 wasn't bad at all for fitting. The machinist milled it out to 87 or 88mm from what I remember. I left him the crank to measure & be sure. There was a little bit of cleanup to do with the dremel once I got it home, but nothing too drastic - just making sure the rod cleared in all the right places under full rotation. I did that after my crank snapped at PARC during practice, used the 54 for the last couple/few races. Frankly, I'm sold on the power difference. Having the right pipe (& clutch!) for the job also becomes paramount. The skirt on the cylinder is just over 16mm deep & 66mm at it's widest (it tapers in). I though about doing the Parmakit w-force instead as it only has a skirt depth of 7.5mm, thusly less invasive, but I didn't like that I was going to have to put more work into the manifold as the one they supply appears to be for a 25mm carb... I would like to try to get by without welding the cases. The issues with cases regularly going porous after having them welded that I see other people having make me apprehensive. That's not to say that I'm above doing it if the available port area necessitates it, though... I do get concerned a little bit that this setup might be overkill for what we're up to - and then I watch the ESC races & change my mind. ;D ;D ;D
Last Edit: Jan 8, 2011 6:24:54 GMT -5 by paddyfitz
Ok here are some pics of the new scoot. I had a little photo shoot this morning in my sun room. So this basicallly started after the last race when I bought a new wire feed mig welder. Well that opened up all kinds of possibilities.
First thing I did was get a P200 front end (ditched the PGO forks) and cut 4" out of the middle of the fork stem. Both Christian and Dayn suggested inserting a smaller pipe inside to keep it straight when welding but it turns out that the inside is tapered, so I basically had to eyeball it. I cut roughly the same amount off of the fork tube and frame then rewelded it with the same collar so the cables could run inside. After that I switched the hub and brakes with one of my street P200's so now I have hydraulic disc brakes. I mounted the remote master cylinder on the inside of the frame so it doesn't get smashed like it would on the forks or the bars.
For the tail piece I basically just got bizzo with some sheet metal and welded it into place. All the original seams on the frame are folded and spot welded so I cut them off and ran a continuous weld all the way around to give it nice clean lines. Then I cut about 1.5" off of the the seat base to get the new seat pan lower and welded in the cross bar running continuous to the rear pan in the frame.
After installing the PW80 tank (you may remember was mounted on the rear for a while) I just used some foam tubing and tape to form the seat and fiberglassed over the whole thing.
The flexible break line doesn't go straight through, there is a loop inside the frame to let it flex when I turn. The Bitubo's were on my other race bike but I figure they look better on this one. In my own typical fashion I put some cutting board sliders on the forks to protect everything when I bail (which I do a lot).
I also robbed the Vespatronic ignition and flywheel from my other race scoot but it's getting the HP4 so I don't feel so bad. This one has better spark and auto advance timing. I also rebuilt the engine with new seals, bearings and a stroker crank to make it a 175cc. Instead of the 1.5mm base gasket I made a 1.5mm copper head gasket to split the extra 3mm of travel between the port opening and the extra compression ratio.
This is that new reed manifold I posted on facebook. I got a VForce reed for a CR125, measured it up and custom fabbed the manifold to match the cases and my OKO 30mil semi-flat slide carb. Fits perfectly! That funny plubing part to the right is my fuel shut off.
Here is some good anal scooter porn for those of you who are into it.
From this view you can see how narrow the seat is in the middle. I wanted to be able to hook the inside of my knee in there and really hang off each side. No mistaking the kill switch.
I reworked the pipe to have a little upturn. Great for the guy right behind you.
Yes, those are hockey puck body sliders. I am Canadian after all.
I thought the clear gas filter was a nice touch too.
I reworked my bars to give them a bit of drop. Way more cumfy now. Those TT92's rock right out, I think I'll get a pair for my other race scoot.
Knock yourself out. The remote master setup works great but it's not my idea. I saw a lammy on the vancouver rally last year that had something similar, but in his glove box. I hate having the master on the front fork and I've seen the master smashed off the bars before. I'd rather replace a $15 leaver than a $100+ one.
Wu'sup Bitches! Thought you might like to see how my new racer project is shaping up. Pretty radical engineering going on here. Waiting for the front bearing sets so i can figure out how much to cut out of the fork stem. After that will be a close fitting fender for the front and rear (see the mount i already installed on the rear suspension arm). Then i'm going to fiberglass in the seat up to the tank. Everything else should just be bolt on to finish it.